Going natural is a big decision for women of color. Being "natural" will change the way you look and how you care for your hair.
There are many ways to “go natural” but the most common way is the big chop.
The “big chop” is either shaving your head or cutting off the straight or chemically treated hair. What is left is hair as it naturally grows out of your head. The length depends on how long you let your hair grow before doing the big chop.
Women considering the big chop decide to do it for several reasons. They may be dealing with hair damage and want healthier hair. Some have been straightening or relaxing their hair for years and want to see its natural texture. Some just want a dramatic makeover. Whatever the reason, a big chop is a major change and you should weigh the pros and cons before making that first cut.
Pros of the big chop
Fresh start:
The big chop is best for erasing all the bad things a person does to their hair over the years. The hair closest to the scalp is the newest. Doing a big chop means the hair the person is left with should be the healthiest. The hair is also the youngest and has undergone less manipulation, which usually means less damage.
Faster than transitioning:
When transitioning to natural hair the person lets their hair grow naturally and cuts the straight or chemically treated hair a little at a time. This allows the person to keep their length, but they usually have two textures of hair. To make the hair look the same they either have to straighten it or manipulate the hair into a braid-out or twist-out.
The big chop lets the person skip past transitioning and all the extra work that would have to be put into it. That means they could start enjoying their natural texture almost instantaneously.
Hair freedom:
Doing a big chop gives you freedom from the hours of washing, detangling, and styling a person transitioning would go through. Some may be able to wash and go.
However, hair freedom doesn’t mean hair neglect. After your big chop, you want to make sure you are caring for it like you will when it gets longer, that includes deep conditioning, moisturizing, and wrapping it at night with a silk scarf or bonnet.
Short hairstyles:
If you are coming from long hair, the big chop will be a good time to try all the short hairstyles you’ve been eying. I love the curly pixie cut and tapered cut with a cool design on natural hair. Finger waves are also super cute and easy to take care of.
Whatever style you choose you need to make sure that you embrace the length of hair you have. If you are really missing the inches you can always get braids, a weave, or a wig.
Get to know your texture:
The big chop is the time to get to know your texture. That means figuring out your hair's precocity, and density and testing out products.
You should figure out what products and ingredients work for your hair before you get a lot of inches. You don’t want to have years of growth, then experience a setback and have to have another big chop, all because you put the wrong product in your hair.
Cons of the big chop
Big adjustment:
A big chop can be a big adjustment, especially if you are coming from having long hair. Seeing yourself with very little hair can be tough even if you are ready for the change. This comes from society equating beauty with long hair. Subconsciously you may have attached your beauty to your hair. Before you become insecure about your hair, it is important to realize you are beautiful with, or without hair.
Hair length:
The length of your hair after a big chop could become negative. Again you have to be comfortable with the change. Going at your hair with clippers is not for everyone. You may want to let your hair grow out a little before the chop. That will give you some inches to play with.
Shrinkage:
If you have tight curls, especially type 4 hair then you know that shrinkage is real. Some naturals, including myself, have hair down their back when it’s straight but only to their shoulders when curly. If you are trying to grow your natural hair, the lack of hang time may discourage you. Every natural goes through this.
I say embrace the shrinkage. It’s when you fight it with a twist-out or braid-out you have to fight the elements like rain and humidity. When your curls are in their natural state, even if Mother Nature catches you, your hair won’t look a mess. It will just get curlier because the hair will absorb the moisture.
Awkward length phase:
This is the one no one talks about. After the big chop, there comes a point in your hair grown when the cute style has grown out and the shape isn’t flattering. It makes you want to do two things. Go to a salon and get it cut again or put it in a protective style until you get more length.
I used this time as my creative phase. I tried different braids, twists, buns, half up/half down, and whatever style I could find on Pinterest. I refused to let the awkwardness of my hair stop my growth journey. So stay focused on your hair goals and having healthy hair. The awkward length phase doesn’t last as long as it feels like it does.
My final thoughts on the big chop are that it is a good way to go natural. Make your own list of the pros and cons. If the good outweighs the bad, I say go for it. At the end of the day, its just hair and it will grow back.